Growing Paph.

In the Sub family of Cypripedioideae, there are 5 genera (Paphiopedilum, Selenipedium, Phragmipedium, Maxipedium and Cypripedium). The 5 genera, Paphiopedilum forms the largest group. In this group there are about 80+ species. These are native to South and S.E. Asia. Paph (short for Paphiopedilum) are either epiphytic, lithophytes or terrestrial. They are normally found growing on leaves, mould or other organic debris that collects on the ground and rock crevices. But before you rush to stock up on these exotic looking blooms thinking that they are native to our region, bear in mind that some of these species hail from intermediate and highland regions. The climates of these regions are cool and moist rather than hot and humid.

Prior to growing these bizarre and exotic plants, I was under the impression that one could not grow paphs here without the aid of some form of air conditioning. Yet there in my friend's garden were two pots of such plants - low land ones as it turned out, which can take hotter temperatures - healthy, happy looking and blooming. "I thought to myself, if he can grow them, so can I”.
Fast forward six years and I now have several hundreds paphs in various stages of growth. For the past few years I have been visiting shows as well as overseas growers to see firsthand how other growers grow their paphs. I started growing from flasks about a year after I started growing Paphs. Now more than 95% of my paphs are grown from flasks. I shall be covering later on growing Paphs out of flask. Many of my flasks are from selective breeding. The reasons being that show quality plants are expensive and one can only grow Paphs that are artificially propagated. All Paph and its hybrids are classified under CITES I which forbids commercial trading unless they are artificially propagated.

For beginners I would recommend growing brachys (concolor, niveum, godefroyae and leucochilum) and its hybrids. Most of these can handle hotter climates, and as such are a good starting point for beginners.

Paph care can be divided into four basic categories: Light, Temperature, air circulation/humidity and Water. Once those four components are addressed, the rest is easy. Each section is discussed below.

Light:
Light levels in the home are usually sufficient for most Paphs. An east or west facing window, shady south, or bright north is good for many types. Remember, heavy curtains, outdoor trees and other obstacles may affect the 'light rating' of your window. Direct sunlight (except early morning sun) is usually not good for extended periods. Sunburn shows up within hours, and causes permanent scars that paphs take years to grow out of. If unsure, start at a lower level of light and gradually increase the levels of illumination. Although seemingly healthy, dark green leaves are usually a sign of low light levels, a symptom that usually expresses itself with little or no blooms. Artificial lighting can be used as a substitute for areas that are unable to receive sufficient light. Generally an intensity of between 1000 to 1500 fc would be sufficient to grow these plants.

Temperature:
Paphs are highly adaptable to a wide range of temperature conditions. Most mature Paphs will do fine at 'people temperatures' in the home, i.e. 85 F/30 C during the day, and 77 F/25 C at night. Seedlings usually like it warmer as it accelerates their growth. Be sure to take into consideration light levels, air currents, drafts, etc. as this will have an effect on the micro climate your plant lives in. Good locations are often near balconies, kitchen sinks or in the bathroom, as the plant can also benefit from warmer, moister conditions in these areas.

Water:
Watering is without a doubt the single most important factor required to paphs successfully.
Unlike most other orchids, lady slippers do not have a water storage capacity in their leaves or pseudo bulbs. For this reason, they need to be kept consistently moist but not wet, with little drying between watering. Strap leafed or multifloral Paphs with long, uniform colored leaves usually like it brighter and warm. Mottle leafed Paphs need more shade to thrive, but also like it warm.
Many people want to schedule their watering on their calendars. This may not work! A plant's need for water changes throughout the season, so you need to be able to judge. An easy way to tell when to water is when the pot is light. How do you know when it is light? Drench it with water and then lift it up. This is what the pot feels like when it is heavy! Another method that you could use is to place a few wooden stalks in some pots. If in doubt about watering pull out a stalk and see the moisture that is in the pot.

Remember: the length of watering time will vary depending on each and every one of these factors: stage of growth, light, temperature, humidity, and air circulation. All of these things change throughout the year so do water needs of the plant.
Over watering is the number one cause of death of Paphs in the home. If in doubt, wait for two days and then water.

Air Circulation and Humidity:
These two topics also receive a great deal of attention. Paphs do not like stagnant air, and they definitely appreciate a light breeze. Humidity is also important. Ideally the relative humidity should be between 50 – 80%. Remember do not increase the air circulation unless you can also maintain the humidity, or you will have just the opposite effect and dehydrate your plants. Air movement keeps the leaves cool and to dries drops of water on the plants. This will help to reduce the chance of disease spreading. Hot or cold draught can cause bud-blast (the buds turn brown and die). Fans can be used to provide the necessary air circulation.

What about fertilizer?
EVERYBODY is concerned about fertilizer. Generally species require much lesser fertilizing than hybrids. You can use about a ¼ of the strength as indicated in the label. You can fertilize the growing plants 3 times in succession and on the 4th time, flush through with pure water (no fertilizer). Remember: WEAKLY, WEEKLY. A general 20-20-20 (NPK) is a great all purpose blend. Would you rather have one big meal a day, or several meals throughout? Plants feel the same way.

Pot and Potting Mixture:
Popular potting mixes may consists of a combination of the followings - fir bark, coconut husk chips, charcoal, pumice, diatomite, perlite, sphagnum moss, fern root, seashells, and leca. Practically any potting mix will work when used under the proper growing conditions. An ideal mix should be open and well-drained but still retaining a bit of moisture. Soggy mixes will block air to the plants’ roots.
Never over pot your plant. The pot size to use should be determined by the plants’ root size and not the size of the plant. Repot your Paph before the growing medium decomposes and before the plant has out grown its pot, typically before 2 years. The repotting procedure entails first, clipping of dead roots, positioning of the plant in the new pot and finally filling in around the roots with the fresh potting mix until it reaches slightly over the base of the plant. The base of the plant must not be buried. Do not bury the new plant growths as this may cause rotting. The base of each growth should be in contact with the growing medium to encourage new roots to form. Keep watering to a minimum and do not add fertilizer until the evidence of new growth is apparent. However do not neglect the humidity or else they may be dehydrated. Newly potted plants should be placed in shaded areas or moved gradually into the correct light conditions once new growth begins. A whitish mineral deposit on the surface of the potting medium or pot is an indication that excessive salts have accumulated and that it is time to repot the plant.

Pest and Disease Control:
Paphs are generally less susceptible to pests as the flowers do not exude nectar. Some common pests that you may encounter are mealy bugs, aphids and spider mite. More often than not poor sanitation due to inadequate air circulation and wet conditions encourage fungal and bacterial diseases. It is important that you do not overcrowd the plant. Always try to water the plants in the morning. This is to allow the water to dry up by sun set. Remove/isolate and do not be afraid to destroy infested plants. Most of us are apartment dwellers and it is important that we have to be mindful of chemical usages for the plants. For me, I use the organic treatment on my Paphs. Cinnamon is an excellent natural fungicide. Cinnamon dust powder can be used to dress cuts. Mix 10 drops of cinnamon essential oil, 15 drops of dish washing liquid and 1 liter of water. Shake well and spray the plants every fortnightly. Likewise this mixture and treatment can be used as an insecticide. However, neem oil is used in place of the cinnamon essential oil. Plants can be sprayed more frequently if there is an attack. Alcohol dip on cotton swabs can be used to remove mealy bugs. The best approach is: prevention is better than a cure. It is important to note that the frequent use of systemic pesticide and fungicide can have cumulative toxic effects that can cause crippling of flowers as well as growth retardation.